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1. Tiny Loose Threads from Clippings
Take a piece of tape and tap the embroidery after clipping.  The tape
easily picks up those tiny pieces of thread.

2. Bits of Solvy left over after pulling it off.
Trouble with those little bits of Solvy you just can't pick out? Don't pick.
Fill an old (cleaned) roll on deodorant bottle with water and roll over
embroidery.  OR  blot with a damp clean sponge. The bits of Solvy will melt
leaving your embroidery nice and finished looking. No need to try to pick out
those tiny bits.

3. Stabilizer
As a rule, a piece of stabilizer will be for 10,000 stitches. If your design is
14,000 stitches, only hoop the 1 piece of stabilizer and then "float" a piece
of stabilizer UNDER the hoop.  24,000 stitches, float 2 extra pieces of
stabilizer.  To "Float" simply means to lay a piece under the hoop.
The stitches will attach it to the hooped stabilizer.

Always use the type of stabilizer for the material.... Not the number of stitches.
Example. Light weight stabilizer for light weight material. Lots of stitches?
Float the extra stabilizer "under" the hoop.

4.  Glue
I personally Hate spray glue. It just gets all over and is very expensive.
You can get the expensive washable glue sticks for fabric. But for years I
have been using the Children's Washable Glue Sticks. You know, the cheap
ones that are on sale just before school starts.
Just rub some on your fabric for appliqué and stick it down. The glue
washes out. If it's the colored washable glue, the color disappears when dry.
I don't even hoop my towels and most T-shirts. I just rub some glue
stick onto my stabilizer and stick down my project.
When doing this, it is advisable to stitch down your project with a
basting stitch. This will secure your project to the hooped stabilizer.  

5.  Basting Stitches
These are great. You will find them for free on my Yahoo group.
This is a design file that is a single stitch that are far apart and stitch around the inside of
the hoop. They are very easy to take out once you are finished.

But don't use them on any fabric where the needle holes will show. Such as Leather,
Plastic, Foam, Vinyl ect.

7.  Sent in by my tester, Toby
    I just wanted to share a tip that I used on this set for
    stitching.  I loaded a 4x4 basting stitch along with the
    design and stitched it.  Then, when it was finished, I
    cut the blocks to a finished size by using my ruler and
    rotary cutter and cutting 1 inch from the basting line
    all the way around.  That gives me an exact 6" block,
    perfectly centered, and ready to be put in a quilt or
    whatever and made all of my stitchouts the same
    size.  I can now either build a quilt leaving the basting
    line in or taking it out, depending on the effect
    wanted.  If I decide to leave the basting stitch in, I will
probably stitch it twice for a better effect.  I'm also thinking that if I leave the basting stitch
in, it would make a good guide for finish machine quilting with "stitch in the ditch".  Here's
what it looks like with the a single pass of the basting stitch left in.

8. Tip: Clean the under the sewing area. Plus under the bobbin carrier. I use a soft,
narrow  paintbrush. If you don't clean it, the little bits of fuzz can ruin your embroidery by
making your thread bunch up. If you don't use your machine often, or even use it to often,
I like to do this after every 5 bobbins that I change and a new needle after every 10
Have a cool Tip or Trick?
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